Italian pastries reminiscent of Brooklyn, freshly baked bread and mozzarella made every morning by trained 100% Italian hands. This area is known for the largest and oldest open-air market in the U.S., the Italian Market, which runs down 9th Street through Bella Vista’s center. The neighborhood itself, which is right south of Washington Square West, is speckled with bocce parks, coffee shops, and restaurants serving food cooked by real Italian grandmas. If you are lucky enough to live in this neighborhood, you will never go hungry, never be without neighbors as friends and never alone at whichever park you pick for our afternoon reading.
Start on 9th Street at Villa di Roma for no-frills service and an eggplant ptarmigan that will make your head spin and then jump next door to make reservations for the next night at Ralph’s, a restaurant that has survived the ages and changes of Philadelphia (Ralph’s is more than 100 years old and has outlived 20 presidencies, a depression the prohibition and two World Wars; most Philly restaurants can’t even survive past five years). Next door (yes there are three amazing places next to each other) is Sarcone’s Bakery (come on, you have to have heard of them) where all the bread is usually sold out before lunch. And don’t even think about not waiting outside at 5am during the holidays (everyone wants to bring a few loaves to the Sarcone-free suburbs at Easter). Next door (did we say three? We meant four.) And even though any deli that wants to be a contender in Philadelphia serves on Sarcone’s bread, Sarcone’s was smart enough to open their own deli on the corner with hoagies named The Sinatra and The Booch. You can smell the sugar coming from the vents at Isgro’s Pasticceria where they make cannoli, sfogliatella, Torrone and other amazing things you probably shouldn’t be eating. In the summer, John’s Water Ice (their logo is the Godfather logo. Are you starting to understand Bella Vista yet?) serves three simple, hand-made, natural flavors out of a simple window; reminiscent of Italian summers in old Brooklyn. Newer restaurants are trying their cooking hands in Bella, and many have made home here to a positive reception. James is a beautiful modern restaurant that serves up things like bone marrow in a meticulous environment.
Ninth Street is packed with people buying fresh veggies from crates, cured meats hanging from windows and specialty jams and cheeses from Di Bruno Brothers (the original, small, authentic location, not the corporate dream in Rittenhouse Square). Chefs run food tours on the weekend through the Italian Market and those not looking to stock up for the week are waiting outside Sabrina’s Café (again, the original location) for hours just to get a piece of their decadent French Toast (probably a mix of cheese, Nutella and compote) for Sunday brunch. Bardascino Park (a small stretch of tress and benches) has a bocce court, while the large Palumbo Park is where you’ll find people playing basketball, teams playing baseball and other leagues out on the field tossing Frisbees or practicing yoga.